[edit] Introduction
Changing the starter motor is one of the more involved jobs a mechanic can perform on a Renault 5.
Time estimate: 3-4hrs for an amateur mechanic, depending on experience.
It's not a straightforward job to undertake - the manifold(s) must be removed before access to the starter motor can be attained. Even then, undoing the bolts securing the starter motor may not be straightforward, or even possible! If you think your starter motor is suspect, check that the electrical connection to the solenoid on top of the starter is secure before embarking on this task! It's much easier to renew the wiring to the starter than it is to change the starter itself.
Gordini models have a separate exhaust manifold (the engine is crossflow), whereas all other models have a siamesed inlet/exhaust manifold. Whatever, the manifold(s) over the starter must be removed before it can be accessed.
You should still be able to get reconditioned starter motors from your local motor factor. They'll usually charge a surcharge which will be refunded when you return your old unit.
[edit] Steps Involved
[edit] Removal
- Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - very important!
- Non-Gordini models: Remove the air filter housing
- Undo the clamp which secures the exhaust to the exhaust manifold (or in the case of Gordini Turbo models, remove the exhaust manifold to turbo bolts)
- In the case of non-Gordini models, remove the choke cable from the carburettor, and the accelerator linkage (simply pull the plastic "rod" from the balljoint on the carburettor)
- Undo the nuts that secure the manifold(s) to the cylinder head. These will require a 13mm spanner. Some of the nuts on non-Gordini versions are special (elongated) and can be undone with an allen key. Access is quite tight round the manifold, but with some judicious spanner and allen key wielding the nuts should undo reasonably easily
- Carefully pull the wire from the solenoid (the small wire attached to the smaller part of the starter)
- Unbolt the main power cable from the starter (you did remove the battery negative cable, didn't you? If not, you'll have a nasty surprise with lots of sparks, etc)!
- Unbolt the starter motor from the clutch bellhousing. There are three bolts. Note: this sounds easier than it is. I've had some cars where the bolts are practically inaccessible!
- Withdraw the motor from its housing (towards the rear of the car)
- Wiggle and remove the motor from between the engine block and the engine mounting stay
[edit] Refitting
In the great tradition of the well-known publications that talk about working on cars: Refitting is the reversal of removal. Well, it kind of is, but you might like to consider using new gasket(s) on the manifold(s), etc. Surprisingly enough, I have heard that silicone sealant is capable of withstanding enormous temperatures and thus can be used as an exhaust gasket sealant! Note to oneself: research this more fully before trying it!
I suggest using a bit of copper grease on the manifold studs. This should make it easier to remove the nuts in the future.
If you found that manifold studs unscrewed from the cylinder head rather than the nuts unscrewing from the stud, panic not! Local motor factors should have new studs and nuts in stock (just take the old one down with you). Refit a stud by screwing it into the block by locking two nuts together on the end of it and using those to screw it into the cylinder head. Be aware: the cylinder head is aluminium. Do not overtighten studs into it, or you will risk an expensive repair!
[edit] Afterword
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